Category: Travel Stories

  • Stevens Lakes

     

    Lower Stevens Lake
    Lower Stevens Lake

     

    The hike to Stevens Lakes itsn’t particularly hard, but it’s no walk in the park either. It’s about 2.5 miles and 1700 feet of vertical gain to the upper lake on a well-used and well-mantained trail. It starts off relatively steep and continues to climb steadily for the next mile before levelling out briefly as the trail emerges from a beautiful forest into an open basin surrounded by walls several hundred feet high. Just atop the headwall, 350 feet up, is the first lake, and Willow Creek drains from Lower Stevens Lake to drop over this ledge with a series of amazing waterfalls. It is at the bottom of this drop that the trail crosses the creek to start the mighty ascent and final approach to the lake. The old trail used to route you straight up the incline, but a new trail routes you along a series of switchbacks across a talus field, but on this July day, we were crossing a fairly significant snow field. As the trail came back with the old route, the final switchbacks were also snow covered, but the snow was soft and kicking steps was quite easy. We passed a view of the upper waterfall, a beautiful 30-40 ft. drop, before levelling out atop the wall. It was not long before the lake came into view along with a seriese of campsites along the northern shore.

    I was surprised to see so much snow at sub-6000 foot elevations this late into July, but the upper lake, only a few hundred feet higher, was still mostly frozen over. There was a warm sun, cool breeze, and not a sound from the developed world despite the close proximity to a major interstate. We had only hiked in a little over 2 miles at this point, but it felt like the middle of the wilderness. I was also surprised at how pristine the forest was on this hike. The land closer to the interstate had been logged, and is still being used for timber harvesting, yet the Stevens Lake trail saw none of it. Along with the snow, it was still early spring up there. The Glacier Lillies, Trillium, and Forget-me-nots were in bloom all over the place, and on the lower sections of the trail, I finally saw some Beargrass in full bloom.

    Stevens Lakes are a popular camping spot, and it’s not hard to see why. It’s so relaxing with beautiful scenery but not a huge effort to get there. On this day, there were at least 3 groups camping for the night. There are also a handful of sites by the upper lake, but they were stilI  burried under a couple feet of snow. In a few weeks, I may have to return and continue my hike up to Stevens Peak, an easy bushwhack to the ridge and a jaunt to the summit. I braved the snow and made it up to the upper lake for a few shots before turning back and descending to the car.

    We finished the day with a dinner in Wallace.

    There are many of these alpine lakes all over the mountains of the west. Many of them require long and strenuous hikes, but the reward is often worth it. But for families and non-hikers, the trip can be intimidating. Some of these lakes are accessible by car, but when you drive into one of these basins, you lose some of the magic and serenity. Some of the hikes are easy and require a difficult drive over primitive roads to start your hike in the high country. What makes Stevens Lakes so appealing is that it is easy to get to, right off of I-90, and the hike can be made for all levels. If you’re in shape, you can easily make it to the lakes in an hour and then continue up the ridges. If you’re slower, you can take all the time you want because it’s only 2 miles in. It’s a great way to spend a summer day and get to some great scenery.

    View the Photo Album from this hike.



    View Stevens Lakes Hike in a larger map

     

  • 4th of July

    Hobo Cedar Grove

    The celebration of our nation’s independence is a custom dating back all the way to the day the Continental Congress approved and signed the Declaration of Independence. The use of fireworks to celebrate the momentous and historic occasion also dates back to that time. As John Adams wrote to his wife:

    “The second day of July, 1776, will be the most memorable epoch in the history of America. I am apt to believe that it will be celebrated by succeeding generations as the great anniversary festival. It ought to be commemorated as the day of deliverance, by solemn acts of devotion to God Almighty. It ought to be solemnized with pomp and parade, with shows, games, sports, guns, bells, bonfires, and illuminations, from one end of this continent to the other, from this time forward forever more.”

    Adams’ reference to the second of July marks the day that the Continental Congress approved a measure to declare independence. The official document, was signed two days later. Regardless, the founding fathers had visions that for years to come, that day would be memorialized with great celebration including the beloved fireworks display we have come to enjoy.

    But while most people were celebrating America by blowing a part of it up, I chose a much more solemn way to pay tribute to this great country. We often remember our historical heritage during these days, but we sometimes forget about our natural heritage. On this day, I visited a grove of trees so old, they were standing tall long before the European settlers ever set foot upon the continent. These trees are a testament to the persistence of nature to thrive against the rugged challenges thrown at it. These trees have survived centuries of fire, drought, snow, and winds. And after all of the beatings, the trees still stand only to be taken down in mere hours by the hand of man.

    Among the GiantsThere are few old-growth virgin timber stands left in the United States. When the settlers arrived, they quickly chopped down the forests for farm land, wood, and security. After all, much of Europe’s forests had already been decimated before the Americas were colonized, and the wilderness was a scary and dangerous place. But it also provided raw materials and natural resources with which to create new products and amass wealth. When the West was finally settled, the forests, with their big trees, were quickly taken advantage of. Fortunately, a few of the industrialists and businessmen who were responsible for the massive destruction of the landscape also recognized the importance of preserving some of it for generations to come. And for whatever reason, whether it be inaccessibility or the sheer awe struck by the people who saw them, some of these stands of forest were spared the wrath of the timber and mining industries and preserved for us to see today.

    My 4th of July trip took me to the Hobo Cedar Grove and Botanical Area near the town of Clarkia, Idaho. The trees here aren’t the largest, but the forest is impressive. The one-mile walk through this patch of old-growth forest is enough to make you forget that you drove through a clear-cut to get there. At 4500 feet, it’s a great place to beat the heat. Temperatures on the Palouse were over 80 at mid-day, yet when I pulled into the parking area, the air was a pleasant 72. There is a picnic area and restroom at the trailhead, and a one-mile loop through some of the most beautiful forest I have ever seen. There is a shorter interpretive nature trail as well. The trail is well-maintained, though there were several downed trees across the path at this time. I suspect the maintenance occurs later in the summer. The drive to the grove is very scenic as well. From Clarkia, you drive along Merry Creek and then ascend into the mountains. While you do drive through a section of clear-cut forest, the clear-cut does open up views of the mountains to the west.

    There are lots of other things to do in the area as well. You can continue driving to the St. Joe River, or take another turn back in Clarkia and head up to Freezeout Saddle. As of a few weeks ago, the road was drivable almost to the Grandfather Mountain trailhead. I imagine that if the road isn’t clear now, it will be in a week or two. Back down in Clarkia, you can search for fossils at the Fossil Bowl or head to the Emerald Creek Garnet Area, one of only two places in the world where you can find star garnets.

    I am thankful that somebody had the foresight to preserve and protect the awesome beauty and splendor of our natural heritage, leaving us with great places for recreation and study. Oh, and in case you were wondering, yes, I did partake in the explosive celebrations later in the evening.

    Fireworks Fireworks

  • Upper Basin Trail


    View Upper Basin Trail in a larger map

    The Upper Basin Trail is a 5 mile loop in the upper basin of Elk Creek just north of Elk River The trail is near the giant western red cedar, thought to be the largest tree in the U.S. east of the Sierra-Cascade crest. The loop is also near the Morris Cedar Grove, another grove of large old-growth red cedar. unfortunately, the road to the Morris Grove was closed and blocked off on Saturday.

    If you’re looking for a difficult challenge, the Upper Basin loop is not for you. The trail was built as an interpretative trail with markers along the way. The markers are just numbers and likely correspond to a brochure to carry with you, but there were no brochures to be found at the parking area. The trail itself is quite easy. The total elevation gain is about 400 feet and much of the trail runs along an old railroad grade which is flat and soft.

    Giant Western Red Cedar
    The Giant Red Cedar
    The trail is scenic, but don’t come looking for grand vistas or picturesque stream scenes. Instead, it winds through some of the typical ecosystems in the area: logged forest (regrowth), marshes, meadows, and some more mature forest. I suspect that hiking this trail early in the morning would provide plenty of wildlife sightings. I passed numerous evidence of moose and elk and a few scat piles that may belong to wolf. This is definitely a trail that the whole family could enjoy and it seems to receive little use compared to the Elk River Falls and the Giant Tree, so it’s also a good way to escape the crowds. To get to the trailhead, travel to the town of Elk River, Idaho (Rt. 8 East from Moscow), turn left onto N. Front Street and stay straight on this road. It will eventually turn into a gravel road. At the fork, take the right Fork onto Forest Service Road 382 toward Upper Basin. In about 8 miles, turn Left onto a short spur that leads to the trailhead and parking area.
    GPS coordinates: N46 53.075, W116 09.674
    Clearwater National Forest trail #747

    About 2 miles beyond is the giant Western Red Cedar. This tree is thought to be the largest tree east of the Cascades and Sierras. It measures 18 feet in diameter at breast height and measures 177 feet tall. It is estimated to be about 3000 years old. This short walk through an old-growth cedar grove is short and mostly handicap accessible, though not 100%. There is also a bathroom at the parking area. If you’re in the area, a trip to the tree is worth the visit.

  • Hells Canyon

    This story begins with Luke and I itching to get out into the backcountry. Although it’s the middle of June, the combination of an unusually cold and wet Spring with the very productive winter has left many of the high country destinations (above 5000 ft.) still buried under 100+ inches of snow in places. And even some of the lower areas are still blocked with impassible snow drifts on the road. This makes our options quite limited.

    The one place we’re sure to have access is Hells Canyon. With the river averaging 1200 ft. in between slopes that exceed 7000 feet, Hells Canyon is the deepest canyon in the United States. The Snake River cut a 200-mile ravine through a basalt plateau forming the western border of Idaho with Oregon. At under 1500 feet in elevation, the Snake River itself rarely sees snow and is warm enough for backpacking as early as March and as late as November. However, to get into the canyon, one must either float in from the town of Oxbow, OR or drive along windy roads over the 4500 ft. Pittsburg Saddle and down to Pittsburg Landing. While the road is plowed in the winter, the journey may still be treacherous to the casual traveler.

    It is from Pittsburg Landing that we begin our hike. Our original plan had us hiking 31 miles in 3 days, ascending over 4000 feet out of the canyon from Kirkwood Ranch to Sawpit Saddle, and then returning to the Snake River via Sheep Creek on a trail that hasn’t been maintained in decades. It would have been an ambitious start to the hiking season. But we were unable to take 3 days for this, so we decided to tone it down and just stick to the Idaho Snake River Trail for about 10 miles or so, and hike back out the next day.

    We began our hike huffing and puffing in the heat of mid-day. For a river trail, the Snake River Trail sure covers a lot of elevation gain. At our highest, I think we were 300 feet above the river.

    Kirkwood Ranch is 5.5 miles south from the trail head. It was a working sheep farm back in the day, though as isolated as it is, it must have been tough living. Today, the ranch is a museum and ranger station. There’s also a backcountry campground on the old hayfield, though it offers such cushy amenities as flush toilets. We had planned to stop at Kirkwood for a late lunch break and then keep going, but we found out that the trail had been washed out less than a mile beyond and was rendered impassible. In fact, the “crowd” set up at the campground was mostly a trial crew in for a few weeks to repair the trail.

    We had two options: We could take a detour, which entailed bushwhacking up and over a 2000-foot ridge to get back to the trail and keep going, or camp at Kirkwood and explore the area without packs. As we were already exhausted, the thought of climbing a steep incline with no trail and heavy packs only to be repeated the next day was not appealing. We found a spot, made camp, and went exploring.

    Our destination Saturday evening was up the Kirkwood Trail, an ATV road that eventually led out of the canyon. We weren’t going that far, we headed up about a mile to Carter Mansion, and then up the hill looking for a vantage point. We were told that the views at the top of the ridge were first-rate, but the ascent would take about 3 hours. Tired and exhausted, we opted for a lower goal, a tree atop one of the landings on the way up. We made it within 200 vertical feet of the tree when Matt and I gave up and rested on a rock while Luke made way for the summit. When he returned, Matt decided to make a go for it. And when he returned, I felt as though I had to make my push for the top. So we all individually made it to our goal and then made our way back to camp for dinner.

    I slept better than I had in a long while. I think we all did. We awoke refreshed and energetic with our eyes set on another high point just across the field from camp. It was a longer, and steeper climb, but we were rested and ready to go. We made it to the top, what was our top. The ridge kept going up. But from our “summit,” 1300 feet above camp, we had a glorious view over the Snake River. When we woke up and started, the skies were grey and overcast. It had actually rained during the night. But as we climbed that last push for the summit, the clouds broke and the sun came out.

    Bushwhacking up a steep slope is actually the easy part. Coming back down is when there are more chances for injury. We took it slow and careful and eventually made it down to camp in one piece, though we were hurting. We rested, made lunch, refilled water, soaked our feet in the cold stream and packed up camp. Because we had made that climb, we set ourselves up to hike out in the heat of the afternoon, and there was no shortage of heat. The car read 83 degrees when we finally arrived back at the trailhead. The hike back wasn’t nearly as bad as the hike in, but we were still tired from the morning’s climb and it felt good to be back at the car.

    The events that cut our trip short ended up making this a great first trip for the season. The summer temperatures in the canyon will make hiking along the river unbearable for the rest of the season, but we’ll have some chances to explore the high country as the snow melts and roads become accessible. Hells Canyon is a marvel of nature and worth a visit. The scenery is big and awe inspiring, and certainly humbling.


    View Hells Canyon Hike in a larger map

  • Weekend Getaway, Part III

    View at 5-Mile Point
    View of the Imnaha River Canyon from 5-Mile Point

     

    Day 3: Canyons

    Storm's Approachin'
    Storms over the Wallowas

    It’s a week later and I’m only now getting to the end of our romantic weekend away to celebrate our anniversary. Saturday was our third and final full day in Oregon. Thursday we had a nice scenic road trip to Enterprise. Friday, we explored the mountains. And Today (a week ago), we explored the canyons. Hells Canyon is a remarkable geologic feature. It’s deeper than the Grand Canyon, and on both sides it’s flanked by two major canyons. On the Idaho side, it’s the Salmon River with the Seven Devils creating the wall between the two. On the Oregon side, it’s the Imnaha river, separated by an extension of the plateau making up the Wallowa Valley. This formation between the two canyons rises up over 6000 feet in elevation and offers spectacular views on both sides. Unfortunately, we were unable to get over to the Snake River side at this time.

    Our morning started out with breakfast outside again. I had a wonderful skillet with eggs and fresh local veggies. The sun was shining and the air was warm, but the forecast wasn’t to be so good for the rest of the day. Despite my best attempts to get out early, we still seemed to get a late start. The goal was to drive down to Imnaha and explore Hells Canyon a bit. Imnaha sits at the bottom of the Imnaha River canyon. At about 2000 feet, it’s often 10-20 degrees warmer and doesn’t get the harsh snows that the higher elevations receive. Thus, Imnaha was the winter refuge of choice for the Nez Perce.

    Getting Closer
    Storms in the Imnaha Canyon

    Today, the town of Imnaha is the end of the paved road, 25 miles into the canyon from Joseph. There’s not much to the town: a tiny post office, a general store, and a couple of houses. But it is the gateway into the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area. We headed up the road to Hat Point, though Hat Point wasn’t our destination. My plan was to get up on the rim, hike around and find some views of the Snake River 5000 feet below. But our plan was thwarted 6-7 miles in when, at 5600 feet, we ran into snow blocking the road. The trip wasn’t without its merits. The entire drive up, the view over the Imnaha gorge just gets better and better. While we were up there, we watched as a thunderstorm developed over the Wallowas and were glad we weren’t over there. The rains slowly filled the canyon, but never actually fell upon us. Even as we drove back down into Imnaha, I was sure we’d hit the rains, but they passed before we got there.

    We went back to Joseph for a late afternoon snack, and then back to the B&B for a bit. We had made reservations for a nice dinner at a place called Caldera’s in Joseph. Their menu is seasonal and the food made with fresh, local ingredients. The food was to die for.

    Day 4: The Return Trip

    Rattlesnake Grade
    Rattlesnake Grade

    All good things must come to an end. And so, Sunday, we got up early, packed, had breakfast, and headed back for home. Erin had to work, so we couldn’t make an exploratory drive out of it. We stopped at the Joseph Canyon overlook to use the restrooms, and we made one brief stop on the way down rattlesnake grade so that I could take a photo of the canyon.

    It’s sad that the trip had to end so soon, but my days in the Wallowas are not over. I plan to make at least one trip there annually to do some hiking and backpacking. The Wallowas are a very awesome mountain range and their relative obscurity makes them that much more special.

  • Our Weekend Away, part II

    Sacajawea, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    Day 2

    Friday morning, I woke up in time to catch the sun rising over the Seven Devils. I went outside with the camera to catch the morning glow on the snow-capped peaks of the Wallowas as the sun rose in the sky. It was a beautiful morning, and quite warm, even at 6:00. We were told that it was the first time this season that breakfast was hosted outside.

    Breakfast was amazing. Each breakfast starts out with fruit and yogurt with their own home-made granola. Erin had some toast from her bread. I was given crepes filled with a huckleberry sauce. Best crepes ever. The atmosphere helped. We were outside with a view of the mountains, the warm sun upon us, and the birds happily chirping all around.

    Our plan was to visit the mountains. Our first stop was Hurricane Creek. Less than a mile in on a side trail, there is a rather large waterfall on Falls Creek. I was optimistic since there was no snow on the road or the trail. In fact, the snow line looked to be at least a thousand feet above us. However, when we got to the falls, we found the entire creek under feet of snow. But only the creek. It must have been avalanche build-up because the rest of the valley around was bone dry. In fact, the snow ended at the base of the falls. So we kept walking up the Hurricane Creek trail looking for a good view of Sacajawea.

    Eventually, the sunshine and blue skies turned into dark clouds and threats of rain, so we turned back. As we got to the car, it started sprinkling on us, but not the heavy precipitation we were anticipating. We headed to Joseph and walked around town, finding a place for lunch. We drove along the lake and up to the Wallowa River trailhead where I wanted to hike to another waterfall, but as the weather never cleared, we decided not to. Instead we did some more scenic driving and scouted out a good sunset location. Unfortunately, the sunset was not too spectacular and we ended up calling it an early evening.

    I finally got Erin into the Wallowa Mountains, and while we didn’t get very far, it was enough to show her why this place is special. I hope that she will muster up the energy to come all the way to the lakes district with me.

  • Our Weekend Getaway: Wallowa Country

    View on Puffer Butte
    View on Puffer Butte, Fields Spring State Park

     

    Introduction

    Almost one year ago, I married the most wonderful girl in the world. Unfortunately, we did not have time to take a nice honeymoon. We spent the night after the wedding at the luxurious Bedford Springs resort, but that was it. Our intentions were to take a trip later in the year, but as winter break approached, we had neither the time nor the funds for a romantic getaway. The winter was long and cold, and still we weren’t able to get away. But finally, as the semester ended and Erin had some long weekends in her schedule, we were able to take some time for ourselves This coming weekend will be our first anniversary, but we chose to celebrate a week early, in part because it’s also Memorial Day weekend and everything would be crowded, and in part because the place we wanted to go was booked up. So here’s how it started.

    My parents are planning a trip to Idaho at the end of July, and I was looking for places to go with them. One of my favorite spots in the greater area is the Wallowa Mountains in northeastern Oregon. It’s unlikely that I could get everyone to hike the 5000 vertical feet to some of the best views around, or the 7+ miles one-way to one of the many alpine lakes. But just outside of Joseph in the Wallowa River valley, there is the Wallowa Tramway, a gondola that takes you to the top of Mount Howard. From there, you can walk the nature trail to a miriad of overlooks, or take off for one of the nearby higher peaks. Since the trip to Enterprise and Joseph is at least a 3-hour scenic drive (with no stopping) from Moscow, I decided to investigate lodging. That’s when I came upon the Barking Mad Farm, a Bed & Breakfast that not only caters to Erin’s special dietary needs, but is also friendly to dogs. After browsing their site, we decided it would be the perfect place to take a mini honeymoon and celebrate our anniversary.

    Day 1

    We left pretty late, later than I wanted. We had to go to Moscow first to pick up snowshoes (I wasn’t sure how much snow would be on the trails) and get some food for the trip. It was after lunch when we finally pulled out and headed for Lewiston. The drive to Enterprise is one of the most scenic there is. It starts on 95 through the rolling hills of the Palouse and then drops 2000 feet into Lewiston and Clarkston. From there, we travel along the Snake River to the town of Asotin where we climb back up to the top of the canyon. The plateau is fairly flat, but gradually rises to 4000 feet only to be cut by another canyon.

    Calypso Orchid
    Calypso Orchid

    Just before we hit Rattlesnake Grade, the 3000 foot drop to the Grand Rhonde river, I saw a sign for Fields Spring State Park. At the last minute I decided to turn in and see what it was all about. Worst case scenario, we could always turn around if there was an obnoxious entrance fee. But it is a free park. It’s pretty small, mostly a campground, but we found a trail leading to Puffer Butte, and with the lovely weather, decided it would be a good time to stretch our legs and let the dogs run around. Well, it’s a good thing we stoppe because it turned out to be a magical walk. The first thing I noticed was the carpet of Glacier Lilies. Then Erin pointed out a purple flower. I examined closer and became giddy with excitement. We had found an orchid. It only got better as we ascended the hill. Ballhead waterleaf, Western Trillium, Spring Beauty, Arrowleaf Balsamroot, Shooting Star, the list continues. Then the trail departed the confines of the forest as we reached the grassy summit of the butte, a view into the deep gorges of Hells Canyon and tributary canyons, the high peaks of the Blue Mountains to the west, and the snow-capped giants of the Wallowa Mountains to the south. There is a cabin on the summit which is open for overnight visits. It’s primarily a shelter for winter recreation. The roads and trails become a cross-country ski and snowshoe area.

    Rattlesnake Grade
    Rattlesnake Grade

    After enjoying the view and the flora, we headed back down to the car to finish our journey. As mentioned before, the road descends 3000 feet over 10 miles of twists and turns only to cross the Grand Rhonde and retake all of the elevation lost. We climb out of the canyon into a flat, open woodland that is just beautiful. We saw a large, dark bird fly across the road and land on a fence post. I thought it was a raven, but as we passed, it became evident that we had witnessed a Great Grey Owl. I turned around to get a photo, but as I got out of the car to get the camera, a large truck passed and the owl was nowhere to be seen. Soon, it becomes evident that you are driving along the rim of another deep canyon. The Forest service was greatful enough to put in an overlook to peer into the Joseph Canyon.

    As we get closer to our destination, the snowy summits of the mountains give us previews of what is to come. Finally, the forest thins and we enter into the prairie habitat that would have made up the Wallowa Valley. Chief Joseph, the 9716 foot high giant appears straight ahead with all of its majestic beauty and splendor. Soon after, more of the range appears and we descend into the town of Enterprise, elevation 4000 feet. It was 7:30 when we checked into the B&B and unpacked the car. The room was amazing, a luxurious suite above the garage with a big view of the Seven Devils to the east. We had a delicious dinner at the Terminal Gravity Brew Pub with the most spectacular pink sunset we would have all weekend.

    Day 2 to be posted soon…

  • Road Trip: Elk River Scenic Byway

    View over the Dworshak Reservoir
    View over the Dworshak Reservoir

    Last weekend, we went to Orofino to check out a riding mower that someone was selling. The drive to Orofino is quite scenic, dropping into a canyon, and then climbing back out before reaching Kendrick, passing a few small mountains, and then descending into the big canyon: the Clearwater River. Orofino is kind of neat in its geographic setting, it sits deep in the intersection of the North Fork of the Clearwater River and the Middle Fork (South Fork? ). It almost reminds me of those towns in Europe that are nested between steep mountains and a river, only not quite as elegant.

    There is another way to get to Orofino, and that is by way of the Elk River Scenic Byway, which connects Elk River to Orofino. The scenic byway is pretty neat, and mostly scenic. From Orofino, it travels the high country above the Dworshak Reservoir, a lake created from a dam on the North Fork, one of the largest dams in the northwest. The dam created a lake about 50 miles up stream into some pretty and wild country. The reservoir itself is owned and operated by the Army Corps of Engineers, but beyond that, the land is primarily owned by the timber companies. So, in the course of driving through lush woodland and high country wetlands, you do come to some clearings.

    Dent Bridge
    Dent Bridge
    The road must cross the reservoir at some point, and does so by way of a very scenic and expensive looking suspension bridge. One only wonders how such a fancy structure was placed in the middle of nowhere, a fine use of federal funds no doubt. Nevertheless, it is a sight to see. Once on the north side of the reservoir, the road becomes unpaved and remains that way until reaching the town of Elk River. Since the land is owned by the logging companies, it is not uncommon to drive through an expansive clear-cut. These openings do provide views of the larger mountains, but with a very ugly foreground. Clear-cutting is probably not the best way to manage a forest for timber, and certainly not the best practice when it comes to impacting water quality, but that’ll be a debate for another day.

    Once we hit Elk River, we’re back on familiar ground, skirting the still-frozen reservoir with a glimpse of the freshly snow-covered Elk Butte. From there, it’s back home by route 8. There are so many cool places to see around here, even by scenic drives, but as the price of gasoline continues to to rise, I wonder how many of these joy rides I’ll be able to take. But some of them will get me deep into the backcountry where I hope to escape for a few days at a time.


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  • Potlatch River



    Potlatch River, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    There is a Forest Service hiking trail about 3 miles due north of our house, though it’s about 7 miles to drive there. Still, it’s close for those after-work getaways. The trail is a ~5mi. loop along the Potlatch River that takes you along the river and then up to the “rim” of the canyon. The first half mile or so is paved, but it then becomes a regular old trail through the woods. There are interpretive markers along the entire length.

    I have been down on the trail several times, but yesterday was the first time I decided to do the entire loop. It turns out that while we have no snow left at the house, there is still plenty on the ground out there and what should have taken 2 hours to complete ended up taking a good chunk of my day (and energy!). I actually hiked the loop backward going up to the top first and coming back along the river. Had I gone the other direction, I may not have hiked the loop at all. The snow along the river was still 2+ feet deep and not packed down very well. Every other step or so, I’d sink down to my knees, and the dogs weren’t having an easier time.

    Still, despite the difficulty with the snow, this trail seems promising. It traverses through a diversity of habitats and promises to offer good wildlife. I came across the scat of deer, elk, and moose, but did not see any. It could be the combination of my timing (mid-day) and the fact that I had the dogs with me. I saw and heard tons of birds, but without binoculars, I couldn’t identify all of them. I heard Pileated woodpeckers and came across another unidentified woodpecker. There were chickadees galore, and a wren that flew across the trail. We spooked several grouse and saw a turkey in the big meadow by the river. And on the river, I caught a pair of Common merganser.

    The trail takes you through a variety of habitats including new forest, thinned/open forest, mature forest, river, meadow, upland, lowland. The best surprise was a clearing with a scenic overlook on top of the canyon (pictured above). The view looks down upon the river, across a swatch of forest and out to some higher peaks off in the distance. Despite being so close to farm and logging lands, the trail feels like it’s secluded in its own patch of wilderness.

    I think when the snow melts, the trail will be a bit more fun to explore and revisit. It’s nice to have something like this so close to home.

  • Skiing

    I went skiing for the first time in over five years, and it felt like I never took a break. Erin and I went to Silver Mountain with Tyler, and Travis. Silver is the nearest ski area to Moscow and it’s not that bad. When the entire area is open, it’s got a vertical of 2200 feet, but we haven’t had enough snow to open the lower portion. But even with those few trails closed, the vertical was still a nice 1400 feet with some nice, lengthy runs.

    Silver is unique to all of the other ski areas I’ve been to. The main part of the resort is at the bottom of the mountain at 2500 feet in the town of Kellogg, ID. But the skiable portion of the mountain is between 4100 ft and the summits of the two peaks, the highest is at 6300 feet. To get there, you take a ride on what they claim to be the world’s longest gondola that takes you to a lodge mid-elevation in the ski area. The gondola ride is nice and scenic, but it does create a traffic jam at the end of the day when everyone is coming off the mountain at the same time.

    Despite its relatively high elevation, Silver must not have been spared the above-freezing temperatures in the heat wave of the last two weeks. Beneath the powder, there were some slick spots, but nothing compared to the ice that formed on Blue Knob back in Pennsylvania. I’m hoping that the temperatures fall and stay low for a few months coupled with a few more large snow storms to open the whole mountain with some nice powder.

    With a summit not much over 6000 feet, the mountain doesn’t seem impressive, but consider that the town is almost 4000 feet below. These mountains are not to be taken lightly. They tread on tree line and some of the higher peaks in the distance certainly surpass the trees. The views from the ski area are magnificent. On the next go, I shall bring the camera.

    Until then, it’s good to be skiing again.

    Links:
    Silver Mountain – www.silvermt.com

  • Old Rag



    Spring!, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    In April, I briefly lost my camera due to a bent pin in the card slot. I sent it to Canon for repair and got the camera back in a week’s time. Unfortunately, during that time, I had scheduled a hike up Old Rag with Jon, my supervisor at the time. So, after a trip to Fed Ex, I stopped at the camera store and bought a couple rolls of film.

    I’ve finally had the chance to get the old scanner out of the box and get this set of slides scanned and uploaded. While I enjoyed shooting with film again and getting some nice rich contrast and tones, I am reminded of why I decided to go digital: I hate scanning. I’ve grown tired of it. Literally. I used to fall asleep waiting for scans to finish and then slog through the process of correcting the images, slowly as my aging desktop can only handle about 4 photos open in Photoshop at a time. Color balancing is a pain because it’s not the same as a temperature white balance performed on RAW files. And then there’s the search for and fixing defects, scratches and specks on the film that the digital ICE either didn’t pick up or did a bad job of removing. It’s all time consuming, but not in the therapeutic sense that the tedious work in a darkroom is. No, sitting in front of a computer screen takes its toll.

    I’m sure I’ll have some rolls of film to shoot in the future, but for now it’s primarily Digital again. So enjoy the last set of film for a while, as well as the last set from the East until I can afford to get back there.

  • Oregon



    Sunrise, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    I made my very first appearance in the state of Oregon over the weekend. I’m impressed and hooked.

    Oregon is a very pretty state, and I didn’t even get to see very much of it. My Oregon experience took me to a little known section in the northeastern corner, the Eagle Cap Wilderness Area in the Wallowa Mountains.

    I went with two other grad students in the department for an overnight trip to Mirror Lake in the heart of the wilderness area. We left Friday night just as the sun was setting and drove pretty much all of the drive in the dark. Thus we had no idea what we were driving through when the road became extremely twisty dropping in elevation and then rising back up. I knew there was a canyon to cross, but it wasn’t until we returned on Sunday that we could see just what it was. We stopped for a late dinner at Subway in Enterprise and car camped at a site off of Lostine River Road.

    From the trailhead at the end of Lostine River Road, the hike was 7.5 miles gaining 2000 feet to the lake at 7600 feet above sea level. We gained 3/4 of the elevation in the first three miles. The next three miles were bliss, a flat trail through an open meadow wandering down a glacial U-shaped valley. It was here that we caught our first glimpse of our destination. Eagle Cap, the 9575 ft. summit, looms in the distance, but our lake lies right at its base. It is a magnificent sight.

    The hike to Mirror Lake is one of the most popular in the Wallowas. The trail is well defined from heavy use and campsites were quickly taken, but there are tons of camping options so finding a place to sleep wasn’t too difficult.

    We relaxed, explored the lake, and watched the sunset before making dinner and retiring to our tents for the night. Because the area is so far removed from any major cities and towns, the sky was dark and full of stars. I attempted to capture the sky before heading off to bed.

    I woke up the next morning just as the light was gathering, bundled up and headed to the lakeside with my camera. I set up to catch the morning alpenglow as the pink light illuminated the summit of Eagle Cap. It was glorious.

    We returned the way we came, nixing the loop over the ridge to the next lake and down the neighboring valley back to the car. I hope to return to make it to the summit of Ealge Cap and explore more of this heaven on earth.

    Sunset on Eagle CapPetes Point

  • Grandmother Mountain

    This weekend, Erin and I set out for our first hike together in Idaho and we made our first summit together on Grandmother Mountain. The hike to Grandmother Mountain begins high up in the St. Joe National Forest 12 miles out of Clarkia. The entire hike is above 5500 feet, which was a neat considering all of our hiking in the East (so far) was under 5500 feet.*

    Grandmother Mountain is an easy two-mile one-way along a high sub-alpine ridge with forest mixed with meadow. The summit stands at 6369 feet above sea level and offers a spectacular view over the St. Joe river valley, though the approach to the summit offers spectacular views in all other directions. Add another two miles to get to Grandfather Mountain at 6306 feet. We intended to get to Grandfather Mountain, but got a late start and were slowed down by a sweet surprise along the way. Nevertheless, whether you do the 8-mile or the 4-mile hike, this is a really awesome place to spend a day.

    Fall comes early in the high elevations of the northwest. The huckleberry and many other bushes are already displaying their bright colors. But, to our great surprise, the huckleberry bushes still had a plethora of ripe berries to forage upon. The berries up there are small, but pack a punch. Erin likes them better than our blueberries on the Appalachian ridges. On the way back, we stopped in the saddle to enjoy the sunshine and collect about a cup of berries to take home and bake with.

    * I’ve hiked above 6000 in New Hampshire and Tennessee/North Carolina, but not with Erin. While Mount Rogers tops out around 5700 ft, we’ve never actually gone to the summit. White Top summit and Thomas Knob/Wilburn Ridge are around 5500ft.

  • Hiking Deary



    View from Potato Hill, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    I’ve now been in Idaho for almost three weeks and I’m starting to get settled into my new home. Later I will post about the property and the abundant wildlife that make our place so special.

    But today, I write about a local hiking opportunity just over a mile down the road in the town of Deary. I have a theory that all cities and towns have an overlook, a spot from which you can stand and look down upon the population center. Sometimes these overlooks are only a few feet above the town itself. Sometimes they are man-made structures. But in mountainous and hilly regions, the overlook is most certainly a natural feature seen from the town itself. Of course there are many exceptions to this rule, but I find in most of the places I’ve been that the rule stands strong. In some cases, you can simply drive up to the overlook. In others, you can hike. And in rare circumstances, you have to bushwhack or even tresspass on private property to get there.

    Deary is no exception to the rule. Just behind the town to the north stands a hill a thousand feet above with a break in the trees and some cliffs on the summit. When I first drove through Deary in February, I wondered if the land was public property and if there was a way to the top. I now revel in the fact that the answer to both questions is “yes.”

    The trail up Potato Hill is designated a restricted use road available for all modes of transportation except automobile. So I was expecting to pass a few people on ATV’s or even horseback, but during my hike today, I passed only one person, and he was hiking with his dog just like I was.

    It’s two miles and about 1200 vertical feet from the town center in Deary. About half way up, the road ends at a communication tower and the trail becomes, well, more trail-like. In fact, there was hardly any signs of recent ATV use, so I suppose most people hike to the summit if many people go up there at all. The trail winds through an mix of open forest and grassy meadow and has a great prospect for wildlife sightings. As you increase in elevation, the slope becomes steeper and the forest becomes denser, when suddenly the forest breaks altogether and a series of cliffs open up a view over the Palouse. The hike is pretty mellow until the last jaunt to the summit where the trail turns straight up and becomes populated with loose rock.

    Nevertheless, the view from the summit is exquisite. The town of Deary, population 500-something, lies just below to the South. Beyond is the mix of forest and field of the eastern Palouse. To the West, you gaze upon Moscow Mountain and watch as the Palouse suddenly ends with a series of canyons off in the distance. Below, but out of sight, is the Clearwater River and the city of Lewiston. To the east, mountains rise and get bigger with each layer.

    This is a short hike, easily achieved in less than half a day, but nice to have so close to home. And yes, there are bigger mountains with taller views, those will be explored in due time. But this looks to be my go-to hike when I’m too busy to go farther afield.

  • The Road Trip

    Well, we are finally off and on our way to a new life in the middle of nowhere, Idaho. Of course, this trip is not without its share of stories.

    To begin with, we were supposed to leave Maryland as soon as Erin was done with camp. I gave her until 2:00 and we were pretty much packed and ready to go by 3:00. We locked the cats in the bedroom so we wouldn’t have to go looking for them, but they knew something was up and were trying their best to escape. Pumpkin got out several times, but we always managed to catch him and bring him back. But when Erin went up to the bedroom to pack the final items, Pumpkin escaped, ran downstairs and then back up. And then he disappeared. We searched all the rooms on the third floor and found no sign of him. There was a possible sighting of him running outside, so maybe he ran back down without notice. Erin wouldn’t leave without Pumpkin, so we were stuck at the farm waiting for him to show up. We were prepared to spend the night, hoping he would come back in for his can of wet food.

    So we waited, and waited, and searched all over the farm with no sign of the little furball. It was near 8:00 when Erin was in the bathroom on our floor and heard a squeaking in the wall. Sure enough, Pumpkin had run upstairs and vanished, just as I originally suspected. He had run into the bathroom closet, which has a huge gaping hole in the wall, and managed to hide within the walls of the house for the entire afternoon. So, with time to spare, we decided to load all the animals into the car and get a head start on our journey. We made it to Mars, PA, just north of Pittsburgh.

    We had a long and fairly uneventful drive on Saturday involving five states. We drove all the way from Mars, PA to Waterloo, IA, pulling in after midnight because the Motel 6 in Dubuque was completely full.

    Yesterday, we drove a record 800 miles from Waterloo, IA to Gillette, WY driving through Minnesota and the entire length of South Dakota. To break up the drive, we took a detour off the interstate to drive through the Badlands National Park. Somehow, the vast and endless prairie is abruptly broken with a series of desert-like sandy cliffs that are eroded into canyons and neat formations and have earned the reputation of the Badlands. We stopped at some overlooks, made it to the visitor center before it closed, and continued through the park. We made it a little ways down the road and stopped to walk the fossil trail. We have to leave the car running so that the animals don’t get too hot, but we’re never far from the car anyway. We get back and the doors are locked. The dogs must have knocked the button and subsequently stranded us outside the car. In our infinite wisdom, our cell phones and spare keys were inside the car. Great!

    Another visitor let us borrow his phone to call AAA. Now the Badlands aren’t really near anything. There are a few small (and I mean small) towns at the entrances, but the nearest major population center is Rapid City, about an hour away. But within a half an hour, AAA had someone out to get the doors open. Meanwhile, we had missed sunset and drove the rest of the park in the dark.

    We were tired and ready to quit for the night, and Rapid City was a good place to stop. But it turns out, there is a massive biker convention going on this week and all hotels were booked. The next Motel 6 was 2 hours farther in Gillette, WY. I would have camped, but Erin wanted to be able to let the cats out to roam around freely, so Gillette it was. Here we are in Wyoming getting ready to head for our next destination, Missoula, MT. Since we have a shorter drive, we should be able to get in at a reasonable hour and maybe even stop to see things along the way.


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  • Dolly Sods, Revisited

    Dolly Sods Meadow, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    In the fall, I visited West Virginia’s Dolly Sods with my parents. The foliage on the blueberry bushes was amazing, but the trees had not yet turned. I was planning to return a week later to backpack through the wilderness area during its peak foliage, but my car broke down and I was unable to make the journey. So I decided I’d make a spring visit instead.

    So, a week and a half ago, I did just that. I got together with Charlie (uvagolfer), another hiker and photographer I met on Flickr, and we did a one-night backpacking trip into the heart of the Dolly Sods Wilderness. We planned a route to cover all imaginable terrain, the northern high country along Blackbird Knob, the scenic views of Rocky Point, and the waterfalls and river terrain of the bottom of Red Creek.

    Our initial plan was to hike in from Red Creek Campground along the Blackbird Knob trail, turn down the Red Creek Trail and camp behind the rocks at Rocky Point, then head up Big Stonecoal Creek and return the whole length of the Blackbird Knob Trail. But we had to change our plan when we found no suitable camping at Rocky Point. In fact, when we got to Rocky Point, we couldn’t find the cliffs initially. The trail comes out on a talus slope offering a small view over Stonecoal gorge, but nothing spectacular. On our way out, we found an unofficial side trail blazed with cairns and decided to follow it. Sure enough, it led to the top of an amazing rock outcropping showing off views up and down Red Creek Canyon. We had the evening light to shoot, but had to return to the trail before it got too dark.

    When we reached the intersection of the Rocky Point and Big Stonecoal Run trails and had to make a decision: head upstream a little bit where the terrain flattens out and there might be a campsite at the stream crossing, or head down a steep 1.2 mile trail to Red Creek where we knew there was a campsite. We chose to go up, and it’s a good thing we did. Almost immediately after the intersection, we found the big waterfall on Big Stonecoal Run and had some time to shoot some long exposures in the dark light. We found an awesome campsite among the spruce forest next to the stream.

    The next morning, we had to decide wither to continue on our planned route, or head down to Red Creek and circle back up the Red Creek Trail. It was a gray and cloudy day, and there were supposed to be more waterfalls below us. Had it been sunny, the scenic views and meadows would have been a better option, but we chose to go down and were not disappointed. We hit two more nice cascades on Big Stonecoal Run before hitting Red Creek. There were two gorgeous waterfalls on some side tributaries on the Red Creek Trail, and two more small, but wide drops on Red Creek itself. So, what should have taken us a few hours to hike ended up taking all day. We returned to the car just as the evening light was fading away.

    There are some really awesome campsites in the Dolly Sods, some big enough to be called campgrounds. The first we came to was an island on Red Creek along the Blackbird Knob Trail. The island was mostly flat and grassy with a small patch of hemlock and spruce. Surrounded by water, it would have been a very serene place to stay. The second was at the confluence of Left Fork and Red Creek. Here, and area was cleared and grassy with room for lots of tents. In fact, a big group was using it that night. That site was probably once a homestead or a mining camp as there was once a railroad bed leading to it. The third big site was at the confluence of Big Stonecoal Run and Red Creek, another grassy area with 4 fire pits and lots of space to pitch tents. Of course there were some smaller, more private sites along the trails as well.

    The Dolly Sods is possibly one of the most beautiful spot in the mid-atlantic, easily topping anything Virginia has, except maybe Mount Rogers. But the terrain and scenery at the Dolly Sods wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for its land use history. Regardless, the protection of this land as a wilderness area makes it a great reason to visit West Virginia. There are some other spots in the Monongahela that I hope to get to before I leave, but time is limited.

    Yet Another Waterfall, Pt. 3Big Stonecoal CreekThe Waterfall on Big Stonecoal Run
    Left ForkRed Creek Gorge from Rocky Point

  • Mother’s Day

    Hazeltop, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    This past weekend, my mom came to Luray to visit me. We spent Saturday in town at the annual Festival of Spring. Main Street is shut down to traffic and the stores and other vendors set up shop on the street. We spent a good deal of time at the wine tasting area, where there ten or so local wineries set up with their products to taste. I tried everything. There were your traditional wines, Chardonet, Merlot, Shiraz, etc. And there were some new ones, wines made from fruits other than grapes, one made with hot peppers, and even a wine made with chocolate.

    The other highlight of the day was the dog frisbee competition. Sandy entered Bizzy, who just couldn’t compete with the seasoned veterans. They did win 2nd in the free-style event. I didn’t even bother to enter Shadow. She was uninterested in the discs, but she was happy to watch all the other dogs.

    Sunday, we went for a hike in the national park. I chose a nice 7-mile loop over Hazeltop, then down to Rapidan Camp and back to Skyline Drive. It was a bit cold out, but the weather was perfect. Spring had just hit the upper elevations, and many trees still had yet to produce their leaves. There were lots of Large-flowered Trillium and Wood Anemone along the Appalachian Trail. On the Laurel Prong Trail, we ran into a patch of Pink Lady’s Slippers, and later we found the elusive Showy Orchid.

    Rapidan Camp was Herbert Hoover’s version of Camp David, a Presidential retreat to get away from the hustle and bustle of Washington, D.C. The camp is located at the confluence of the Laurel Prong and Mill Prong where they form the Rapidan River. All that remains are the Brown House (president’s house), the Prime Minister’s Cabin for distinguished guests, and the Creel Cabin, currently used to occupy park service staff. There are exhibits set up in the other two buildings, but neither were open at the time. We did sit on the back porch of the Brown House to eat lunch and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of the camp. We returned back to Skyline Drive by way of the Mill Prong Trail, stopping at Big Rock Falls for a photography break.

  • Swimming Holes

    When the weather turns hot and humid, there’s no better way to stay cool than at your local swimming hole. Swimming holes offer something that your pool does not: privacy, seclusion, crisp cold water, and no chemicals. That icy mountain stream gets the old heart moving at first, but feels refreshing when the air temperature passes 90 degrees.

    At camp, we have two swimming holes. We frequently take kids to one along Jeremy’s Run because we can walk there. Jeremy’s Run is nice. There’s an upper pool with a slide down to a lower pool. But occasionally we’ll take special groups to Overall Run which has a faster slide, a deeper pool, and a small jumping rock.

    This weekend, I had the pleasure of swimming in both. It was Family Weekend here at the Mountain Campus, and on Saturday, I lead a wildflower hike along Jeremy’s Run. With the hot weather, we stopped at the swimming hole. I don’t usually get in during program hikes, but I was roasting. The swim felt good. Today, after everyone left, I went to Overall Run with Megan and Huck. Shadow and Bizzy came along as well. Initially, the rest of the staff was going to come, but they pooped out and missed a great time. Megan left early and I stayed behind to photograph the waterfalls.

    Swimming holes can be a lot of fun, but there are some precautions you should take to keep you and the hole safe. If the water is not clear, you should always test the depth before jumping off a rock or sliding down a waterfall. Watch out for strong currents and undercut rocks, especially in large rivers. Remember that you are entering a natural ecosystem. Be careful with chemical substances like bug spray and sunscreen. It’s best not to use them when swimming in a stream. Check out the inhabitants of the stream. Turning over rocks will reveal a world of creatures you probably had no idea were there. An abundance of Stonefly and Mayfly nymphs and Caddisfly larvae are a good indication of good water quality and a healthy stream. Swimming holes are natures own water parks, and they can be more fun than our man-made ones.

  • Big Falls on Overall Run

    Big Falls on Overall Run, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    It’s great to have my camera back. Two weeks ago, I bent a pin in the card slot which rendered the camera useless. After speaking with Canon support, I packed up the body and shipped it off to the nearest repair facility. It left FedEx that Monday and arrived at Canon on Wednesday. I authorized the repair and it was fixed on Thursday and shipped back on Friday. I received my camera on Friday. While I’m not happy to shell out the expense of fixing my equipment, I am very pleased at the speed and helpfulness of Canon’s support and repair.

    In the weekend I didn’t have my camera, I hiked up Old Rag in Shenandoah National Park, which has the best views around. I brought my old EOS 3 and a roll of Kodak E100GX with me. Two weeks later, I still haven’t gotten the roll developed. Of course, it doesn’t help that I forgot to bring it to Maryland with me this weekend.

    Monday and Tuesday we were on an overnight canoe trip with the most gorgeous weather. I left my camera behind until I get a good dry box to port my gear in. But Tuesday evening, I headed into the park to find the big falls on Overall Run. The 93 foot waterfall is the highest in Shenandoah National Park, but it also tends to run nearly dry in the summer. A few weeks ago, the falls would have been raging, but the peak Spring greenery made this week the perfect time to look for the falls.

    I found it easy enough. After 3 miles of down-hill, the trail opens up atop a cliff with a great view of the valley and a great view of the Big Falls. There are a few other notable cascades before the big plunge and I’m sure there are some more after. At the bottom of the mountain, Overall Run has a nice water slide and swimming hole, easily accessible by the Thompson Hollow Trail.

    I’m glad I have my camera back and I’ll surely be careful not to damage it again. There are so many places left in the area that I wish to visit, and my time is dwindling before I leave Virginia for Idaho.

  • Duncan Knob

    View on Duncan Knob, originally uploaded by Matthew Singer.

    I got up early this morning to hike before the heat of the day. I would have liked to have gotten up earlier to be at the summit for that early light, but I enjoyed what I got.

    I arrived at my trailhead by 8:00 and reached the summit of Duncan Knob a little after 10 and I had the trail and the rocks to myself. I basked in the sunshine and enjoyed the view for almost an hour before heading back. When I got back on the Gap Creek Trail, I heard voices. I had to do a double take, but sure enough, there were people heading up. I guess I got there and left at the right time. Two pair of people passed me, and my perception of solitude was shattered. Oh well, they were headed up and I was headed down, I could still have the rest of the hike to myself, right?

    For the most part, that was true. But as I drew nearer to the parking area, I passed a lone backpacker and then a group of 3 women and another family of 3. But by that time, I was minutes from the car. I guess I wasn’t the only one who thought Easter was a good day to take a hike.